Southern Illinois:
A Natural Treasure

by Chris McKinley

When asked what comes to mind when you think of Illinois, most will answer with one of two responses- Chicago or corn fields. Although our state does contain both, each taking up a fair share of space, most folks who reply with these common retorts have yet to discover Southern Illinois.

A traveller driving south from Chicago on Interstate 57 will experience scenery consisting of flat, sprawling croplands for miles and miles. About 325 miles, to be exact. Just when you think you can't look at another corn field, however, things begin to look a little different. The number of corn stalks decreases and the land becomes three-dimensional. Trees begin to take up space in your vision. Lush vegetation, lakes, and cliffs cast a variety of colors on the landscape, and the topography becomes increasingly dramatic. (You're not in Chicago anymore!)

The view from Lookout Point at Pine Hills/La Rue.

There is a very good reason why Southern Illinois is different from the lands to the north- Southern Illinois is unglaciated. In other words, during the last Ice Age, the glaciers that were responsible for scraping the rest of the state flat stopped just short of where Carbondale now exists. The ruggedness of Southern Illinois, with its steep, forested hills and sheer cliffs, was left intact, sculpted further by the glaciers' meltwaters. The sometimes rough terrain is extremely conducive to growing grapes and other fruit. The dozen or so vineyards that dot Southern Illinois have been grouped into the Shawnee Hills and Rend Lake Wine Trails.

Grapes: the raw materials at one of Southern Illinois's dozen+ vineyards.

There is no official record as to how Southern Illinois came to be known as "Little Egypt," but local historians have offered educated speculations. The Kaskaskia Indians and French settlers who migrated to the eastern banks of the Mississippi River observed that Southern Illinois is a long valley made fertile by the river's seasonal overflow- reminiscent of how the Nile flooded. Other folklore recalls stories of locusts, famine, floods, and droughts of biblical proportions. In the 1830s, for example, severe winter weather plagued the state's north and central regions, forcing farmers to feed their entire crops to livestock to keep them alive. Southern Illinois, with its mild winter, had a plentiful supply of corn. Wagon trains travelled to Southern Illinois to buy grain. The farmers equated this pilgrimage to the south with stories in the Bible (Genesis 42:1-3), where the sons of Jacob went to Egypt to buy corn to survive.

Today, referring to Southern Illinois as Little Egypt is almost second nature. Many towns, including Cairo, Thebes, Dongola, and Karnak were dubbed with Egyptian names, and a large number of businesses use the "Little Egypt" title in their names. And, of course, the Southern Illinois University mascot is the saluki, an Egyptian dog.

The bald cypruses of Horseshoe Lake.

This area between the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers offers a vast natural playground. The Shawnee National Forest, consisting of 270,000 acres, contains a lush diversity of vegetation, towering trees, ageless bluffs, cascading waterfalls, ancient swamps, and plentiful wildlife. Rivers, lakes, springs, and rolling forested hills offer outdoor recreation in every imaginable form.

Visitors to the Shawnee National Forest can enjoy its natural beauty by driving through one of its scenic routes, hiking any of its 1,250 miles of trails, taking in picnics at the countless natural areas, or engaging in any number of outdoor activities.

Some of the more popular outdoor sports in Southern Illinois include hunting, fishing, hiking, camping, horseback riding, and rock climbing.

Large numbers of white-tailed deer, geese, and turkeys live in and around the forest, attracting hunters from throughout the Midwest. Lakes, streams, rivers, and ponds thrive with bass, bluegill, crappie, catfish and more, making Southern Illinois a mecca for those who consider fishing a religion. Many of the larger lakes come equipped with full-service marinas, offering boat rentals, gear, and other concessions.

Hiking can be enjoyed by almost everyone. There are an enormous number of choices for hikers. Trails of different lengths and degrees of difficulty meander through the national forest. Whether you want to experience a blufftop panorama, delve deep into ancient woods, or take a lakeside stroll, these trails will get you there. There are even disabled-accessible trails.

Campgrounds are located throughout the forest. Some sites come equipped with modern conveniences. RV and tent camping are available within thirteen developed forest campgrounds. Those wishing to rough it can backpack into one of seven wilderness areas in the Shawnee and pitch a tent under the stars.

Horseback riding is a tradition in this part of the state. Generations of equestrians have enjoyed the splendors of the forest on horseback. Trail of Tears State Forest and Lusk Creek Canyon are good places to pack your horse and set off on the trail to see the sites. These and other areas in the Shawnee have campgrounds for horsepackers who wish to ride for more than one day.

Don't look down! The seventy-foot-high Makanda Bluff in Giant City, a haven for rappelling and rock climbing.

Rock climbing is becoming an increasingly popular sport throughout the world, and Southern Illinois is no exception. High sandstone bluffs and rock outcroppings at places like Jackson Hollow and Cedar/Draper's Bluff make Southern Illinois one of the nation's most desirable climbing destinations.

Cedar Lake is just minutes from downtown Carbondale.

There are too many natural and recreation areas in the Shawnee Nation Forest to mention here. A few of the more outstanding locations, however, include Garden of the Gods, Bellsmith Springs, Little Grand Canyon, and La Rue Pine Hills.

Camel Rock at Garden of the Gods.

Garden of the Gods National Recreation Area, about forty-five minutes east of Carbondale, is magnificent, with towering bluffs, unusual rock formations, and rolling hills forested to the horizon. Glorious falls colors and the infamous "camel rock" bring visitors by the thousands to Garden of the Gods each year.

There are seven Illinois State Parks in the southern-most region, Giant City, Ferne Clyffe, Dixon Springs, Lake Murphysboro, Ft. Massac, Pyramid and Cave-in-Rock.

The Lake Kinkaid Spillway, one of the most popular Southern Illinois locations for swimming, fishing, and boating.

Giant City State Park is located less than ten miles from Carbondale in Makanda, Illinois. Carbondale residents get away from the daily grind and relax in a dream-like setting, taking a hike amongst bizarre rock formations, rappelling off giant cliffs, or hitting a trail on horseback. Giant City also offers cabin rentals and a campground for overnight guests.

Sick of the Cold and Snow?

With similar weather to northern parts of Georgia and Oklahoma (our growing season is 190 days), you'll thrill to Southern Illinois's extrememly mild winters! The summers, while hot, are perfect for hitting the region's dozens of cool, clean lakes and spending nights in the city's beer gardens. Take a look:

annual
snowfall

10 inches 

Outdoor life in Southern Illinois can be enjoyed year-round. Summers are hot and humid, making it a popular time for boating and swimming. Winters are mild, and freezing temperatures don't usually last long. With a little preparation, outdoors enthusiasts can even enjoy camping and hiking in January and February.

Spring and fall are, of course, the most preferred times to engage in outdoor activity. The forest comes alive with colorful wildflowers in spring and fall foliage in autumn.

Looking for Peace and Quiet?

The population of Carbondale vs. Chicago and St. Louis

While Carbondale has all the culture and action of a much larger city, it's not so crowded that you can't get away, if you so desire.

For more information on the Shawnee National Forest, call (800) MY WOODS or visit the website.

For information on Illinois State Parks and Forests, contact the Illinois Department of Natural Resources at (217) 782-7454.

Some additional places where you can acquire further information about Southern Illinois:

• Southern Illinois Tourism Council: (800) 342-3100
• Southernmost Illinois Tourism and Convention Bureau: (800) 248-4373
• Carbondale Convention and Tourism Bureau: (800) 526-1500

Hey- don't have a car? Carbondale is home to four Green Earth nature preserves. Additionally, the SIU features Thompson Woods and Campus Lake- two large, mostly isolated natural areas right in the middle of the campus, both within a fifteen-minute walk of any class of on-campus housing.

Chris McKinley is the Outdoors Editor at Nightlife

© 2000 Carbondale Nightlife. All rights reserved. No reproduction is allowed without expressed, written consent.
This site has been created independently of Southern Illinois University and the City of Carbondale.
It is in NO WAY affiliated, officially or otherwise, with SIU or the City of Carbondale.