A Primer

by Chris McKinley

Southern Illinois is home to several state parks and natural areas. Each has unique characteristics and plenty of opportunities for outdoor recreation. Here are highlights of several parks. This barely scratches the surface, however. To learn more about Illinois State Parks, visit the Illinois Department of Natural Resources website at <http://dnr.state.il.us/lands/landmgt/parks>.

Beall Woods State Park

Sometimes acclaimed the "University of Trees," Beall Woods State Park represents the original deciduous forest that once covered the entire eastern United States. Of the original deciduous forests remaining in the U.S., Beall Woods is one of the largest and last remaining relatively undisturbed single tracts east of the Mississippi.

The diversity of natural communities has produced sixty-four identified tree species; more may yet be discovered. State champions include the Shumard red oak, green ash, sugarberry, and sweet gum. About three-hundred trees, all with trunks greater than thirty inches at breast height, grow here.

The 270-acre primeval woodland bordering on the Wabash River was designated an Illinois Nature Preserve to ensure the forest will forever remain in its natural condition. Because of its unique character, Beall Woods is registered as a National Landmark by the United States and listed in the United States Register of Natural Landmarks as the "Forest of the Wabash."

Picnic tables, park stoves, playgrounds, and Class C camping are available. While a boat launch is located on the lake, only trolling motors are allowed. Many facilities are handicapped accessible. A remodeled barn serves as a nature center, with displays of seeds, native woods of Illinois, and other items. Several miles of trails start here, where simple interpretive signs point out highlights of the forest community to hikers.

Cache River State Natural Area

The Cache River State Natural Area is nationally significant because it contains true southern swamps at the northern portion of their range. At last count, this area contained fifty-six state-threatened or endangered plant and animal species and eleven state champion trees. The Lower Cache River is best known for its remnant examples of high-quality wetland communities, which are indicative of swamps in Louisiana and Georgia. These wetlands contain bald cypress and tupelo gum trees. Some are more than one-thousand years old.

The Cache River State Natural Area has three dedicated nature preserves-- the Heron Pond Wildcat Bluff Preserve, the Little Black Slough Preserve, and the Section 8 Woods Preserve. The National Park Service has two registered National Natural Landmarks within the Cache River State Natural Area.

The main objective of the Cache River State Natural Area is to preserve, protect, and enhance its natural resources while providing opportunities for quality outdoor recreation. Critical habitats are managed to preserve and protect endangered, threatened, and rare plants and animals.

Three areas have been designated Illinois Nature Preserves. All plants, animals, and natural features of the area are protected by law to ensure their existence for future generations.

A great diversity of plant species is primarily due to the Cache River State Natural Area’s variety of land forms and the convergence of northern and southern flora at this biological midpoint of North America.

Compatible outdoor recreational uses include sightseeing, birding, hiking, hunting, fishing, and canoeing. The area is also available for scientific research and educational use by permit.

Giant City State Park

Rock climbing at Giant City's Makanda Bluff.

Once a lowland plain, this area slowly emerged from the sea that formed the northern edge of what is now the Gulf of Mexico. Artifacts found in the park’s shelter bluffs have revealed evidence that Native Americans probably inhabited the area as early as 400 BCE. The name "Giant City" is derived from an area in the park where giant rock formations create such perfect "walls" that they seem almost man-made. The sections appear to form "streets or alleys" resembling a giant’s city.

A highlight of Giant City State Park is the new Visitors Center, which provides interpretive displays on the geology, plants, animals, and history of the park.

Makanda Bluff, a mecca for
rock-climbing, is at least
one-hundred feet tall.

Miles of trails are located throughout the park, ranging in length and difficulty. The Arrowwood, Post Oak, Devil’s Standtable, Stonefort, Indian Creek, Giant City, Trillium, and Red Cedar Trails all highlight different park features. The Post Oak trail is handicapped accessible, with a paved walkway and scenic overlooks with handrails.

A favorite attraction of the park is Giant City Stables, a complete horseback-riding facility. The stables are open from May 1 to November 1 each year. A twelve-mile equestrian trail meanders through the park.

The park also houses an impressive lodge, built from native sandstone and white oak timbers by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the early 1930s. The Bald Knob dining room, with seating for 170, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Cabins provide overnight accommodations in a rustic setting. The lodge is open mid-February through mid-December. Call (618) 457-4921 for more information or reservations.

Trail of Tears State Forest

The State Forest System in Illinois was established to set aside lands to grow timber for forest products, watershed protection, and to provide outdoor recreation. Trail of Tears State Forest is a multiple-use site managed for timber, wildlife, ecosystem preservation, watershed protection, and recreation.

When European settlers entered the area about 1803, Native Americans were pushed south and west. In 1838 and 1839, the Cherokee, Creek, and Chickasaw nations were forced by the U.S. Army to move from the southeast to reservations in Oklahoma Territory. Ice floats on the Mississippi River prevented the travellers from crossing, forcing them to spend that winter at makeshift camps four miles south of the present-day state forest's southern boundary. Bitter cold, poor sanitation, disease, and starvation claimed more than four-thousand lives. The cruel trek came to be known as the Trail of Tears. The state forest's name memorializes the tragic event.

Trail of Tears State Forest lies within the southern section of the Ozark Hills, one of the most rugged landscapes in Illinois. Ridgetops are narrow, rocky, and dry. Clear streams with gravel bottoms are in the narrow forested valleys, hemmed in by steep terrain.

The variety of plant communities is a result of the drastic terrain. The spring wildflower display of the forest's lower slopes and valleys is lush and diverse. About 620 species of flowering plants, ferns, and fern allies have been identified here.

Two large shelters in the main picnic area are ideal for reunions and group gatherings. Two smaller rustic log shelters are suitable for small groups. Each picnic spot contains tables and grills, with nearby privies and drinking water. A ball diamond and several playground areas are also present, making Trail of Tears a great place for family outings. Other, more remote picnic sites exist along the forest's gravel roads.

Miles of fire trails create trail webs through the forest which are open all year for hiking. Hikers can pass through hills and valleys where they can appreciate lush vegetation and abundant wildlife.

Horseback riding is popular and is permitted along designated horse trails. Access and trailer parking are available at the equestrian trailhead along the county blacktop road. Some restrictions exist for horse travel and during rainy periods. Maps and additional information are available at a visitor center in the forest.

Both Class C (tent camping with vehicle access) and Class D

(backpack) camping sites are available at the state forest. Unique log-cabin shelters with fireplaces are located at some campsites. Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s, these cabins facilitate rustic camping experiences for visitors.